Dressmaking

A practical illustrated guide to techniques, tools and troubleshooting from a couture dressmaker.

This book is a beautifully presented and comprehensive resource for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further. It features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take garment-making skills to a new level.

Some notable and practical features of the book are:

• all photos illustrate the sewer's perspective from above, whether hand sewing or using a machine
• fine details (such as a small notch) are shown in close-up photo call outs
• photo annotations point out important details
• lengthy descriptive captions leave no opportunity for confusion.

The contents cover the full breadth of dressmaking. The following are just a few of them.

• Sewing Kit -- the tools and materials required, including a sewing machine, overlocker/serger, and how to choose and use them
• Preparation -- Natural and synthetic fabrics, how to choose fabrics, prepping and handling, pre-washing, types of thread, interfacings, understanding and sizing a pattern
• Cutting -- Laying out and pinning fabric and patterns, weighting, marking, and tacking
• Making - Pressing is not ironing, creating shape, open and closed seams, pockets, openings and closures, zippers, sleeves and cuffs, collars, yokes, waistbands, decorative features, sewing jersey
• Finishing -- Bound edges, facings, hems, and linings
• Resources -- Metric/imperial conversion, sewing machine needles sizes and uses, common seam allowances, and US, UK and European size conversions.

Other valuable topics covered are the anatomy of a stitch, correcting thread tension, fixing stitches, working 4-thread jersey, what selvedge is and how grain lines work, how to measure yourself (and why), how to alter a pattern to fit, making a toile (a personalized, muslin, fitting dress).

Dressmaking: The Indispensable Guide is an essential reference.

“(starred review) This beautifully designed guide by designer and entrepreneur Fallon will be a handy reference for anyone who wants to learn how to sew. It begins with detailed discussions of the anatomy of a sewing machine, thread types, and notions. Fallon explains how to choose among different fabrics and prepare for a project. Then she moves into how to decode pattern symbols, take measurements, create pleats and tucks, and other matters of technique. By the end of the book, Fallon moves on to more complex techniques for cuffs, collars and yokes, linings, facings, and edge stitching. Each page has multiple helpful images. Fallon's descriptions are clear, and her goal is to cover almost everything readers need to know from the first time they sit down at machines to the moment they start advanced projects. The book does not include patterns or sewing projects; it's intended as a resource to accompany them. Fallon is clearly passionate about sewing and conveys her love of the craft, always cautioning new sewers to pay meticulous attention to detail in order to achieve the best results. The book is destined to be a well-worn companion for many creations.”

-- "Publishers Weekly" (12/11/2017 12:00:00 AM)
No matter how many sewing books I've read, I learn something new in a basic sewing book because reading is fundamental.-- "Ernie K Designs Blog" (6/30/2019 12:00:00 AM)

Jules Fallon started out in fashion as an apprentice pattern cutter. She earned her Fashion Degree and became head of a college fashion department. She now designs and produces couture and ready-towear bridal and evening wear, and her company, Sew Me Something (sewmesomething.co.uk), runs hugely popular sewing workshops.

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